Happy Birthday to Aric and Me!

Today was the 12th anniversary of my 30th birthday. And it was Aric's 19th birthday. So we put on our party hats and went and had some family fun. The guys went hiking again this morning. I was going to go, but my best friend saved me. (thanks again!) So I slept in and read books. Heavenly!



After they got back, we went to lunch. Then we all played laser tag. We had so much fun. It made for a great birthday. I got awesome gifts. Nathan got me just what I asked for. Diana picked some really touchingly awesome gifts. I had my birthday buddy here for the day.



I'm a happy girl.



Happy Birthday, Aric. I still remember the very first moment that I laid eyes on you. It was love at first sight and has been love ever since. You were a joy to me when a young child and I enjoy the young man you are now. You are one of the coolest and most interesting people I know. I hope the day was great for you too, Butter Bear!



Living the life surrounded by love in Tennessee!

Positively Biketastic

When I look back at (I know it's been a while, but I needed time to take it all in!) I remember it as the year when I started to notice a lot of positive changes in the cycling world around me. Positive changes not only in the widening selection of transport bikes available in local shops and not only in the public perception of bicycling, but also in the increasing amount of rapport, cooperation and even overlap between different "camps" of bicyclists. And I think this latter point is just as important as the others. We cyclists can be tribal and divisive; we can be each other's harshest, cruelest critics. But if we insist on identifying within rigid parameters and lashing out against each other's choice of bike, attire, and riding style, how can we hope for positive changes for cyclists as a group?




When my cycling club, the Ride Studio Cafe, began to blur the lines between the randonneuring and racing cultures, I remember it felt as if a paradigm shift was taking place. They threw a big party, where cyclists of different stripes interacted with each other with a degree of enthusiasm that showed a genuine eagerness. Dynamo lighting, racks, and wool were discussed. Unexpected common interests were found. It was truly an exciting thing to be witnessing.




At this same party, I finally met Maureen Bruno Roy, a Massachusetts-based professional cyclocross racer. In her off time Mo leads a regular life, and part of that regular life involves riding her pink mixte for transportation. For me, seeing Mo so happy and casual on her city bike was an encouraging moment: I had not encountered an athlete-cyclist outside of Europe before who saw value and usefulness in such bicycles. But to Mo the value is pretty clear, and she credits her attitude to her time racing in Belgium. "There were these Dutch bikes, and I rode them to get around when I wasn't racing; it was great!"




Around the same time, a local man named Jeff Palter got himself a Brompton folding bike and began commuting on it, posting excitedlyon Twitterabout how much he enjoyed that. If you're outside New England that name might not mean anything to you, but Mr. Palter happens to be the CEO of the Northeast Velodrome and theowner of Cycle Loft -one of the biggest roadie shops around. CycleLoft is also the main sponsor ofthe Northeast Bicycle Club - the largest local racing club and the very club that offers the "infamous" paceline ridesthat so divided my readership two summers ago. Until recently, it would have been difficult to imagine anyone associated with this camp entertaining the idea of riding around on anything but a racing bike with a backpack. I was more than a little surprised when Jeff approached me about sponsorship, explaining that CycleLoft was expanding into the city bike market.




"Looks like the war is over," said a local cyclist when I shared this news with her. I guess sometimes, with all the insults flung about, it can indeed feel like a war - especially when some are described as "riding tanks" and others as being "weekend warriors." With a chuckle, I pictured an army of speeding Cervelos clashing with an army of menacingly rolling Workcycles (incidentally - a Dutch bike company founded by an American, who got his start at Fat City).




Some time in December, I was approached by Bicycling Magazine and invited to write a weekly online column about "city bikes and gear." I was initially skeptical about what they had in mind, but it seemed pretty straightforward: They wanted to expand their coverage beyond racing, to encourage people to commute by bike, introducing them to a variety of bikes and accessories for the purpose.I agreed to writethe column. It's a short-term contract and I may not be the one doing it in the long run, but I hope to give it a running start. Or rather, a re-start: Historically, such coverage is not new for Bicycling. A 1978 copyI found of the magazine includes articles such as "Choosing a Three-Speed Commuting Bike"and "Road Test: the Bickerton Folding Bicycle."These things are cyclical. Hopefully the current cycle, with its interest in transportation and city bikes, will be around for a while.




A few days ago I read a story in the New York Times about a man who, a couple of times a week, commutes from the suburbs outside New York City to his office in Manhattan on his racing bike. It's a 40 mile ride and he uses the milage for training. He does it year round, sometimes in snow. I thought it was a cool story, especially after the cyclist himself provided additional details on Velocipede Salon. Then today I read astory in Atlantic Citiesin response to it, about ordinary New Yorkers commuting. The author mentions that some readers criticised the NYT piece for "alienating [ordinary people] who might want to ride to work," but I am glad the author herself did not go that route. Instead she gave examples of some interesting New Yorkers who rideand urged cyclists to unite in promoting their shared interests.




For those of us who have been cycling in major North American cities over the past few years, it is hard not to notice that things are changing. Now more than ever, I feel there is room for everyone who loves to be on a bike to promote their style of riding without criticising others in the process. Whether 4 miles or 40, whether in a business suit or a skin suit, whether on a cheap or expensive bike, bottom line is: It's all positively biketastic. The more we understand that, the better off we will be.

A second opinion on the Scarpa Rebel Ultra

Patrick in his new Ultras.

Photo courtesy of P.J. Cooke



a guest blog by Patrick Walsh



As one would imagine, I was very very excited when I found out I
was going to own these boots. I had my reservations purchasing them
sight-unseen, not knowing if they would be the right size and/or fit my feet
properly. I figured worst case the boots should be pretty easy to re-sell if
nothing else.



My first reaction, and that of most to the Rebel Ultra, has been
“what are those, can I see them?” This is followed by “holy crap those are
freakish light.” They are more akin to a sneaker than an ice boot, and often
the next questions are “what size are they? Can I try them on!?” This initial
excitement is soon followed by “but are they warm enough?”



At this point i have spent twelve days climbing in these boots.
I was fortunate enough to receive them just before an end of season trip to the
Canadian Rockies. I have now spent eleven back-to-back days and one single
day on the east coast in these boots. Although this is not a long time to
have spent with a boot, I feel it has been enough time to offer some real
feedback having spent the better part of two weeks in them day in and day out.



I guess first we should talk about fit. I have what had been
described as a fairly low volume foot with a high arch. My feet measure US 11.5
left and 12 right. The first thing I did was toss the factory insoles and throw
the gamut of off the shelf offerings at the boots in an attempt to get the
perfect fit. In doing so I soon came to understand that these boots are not
your average ice boot, and that bit of toe wiggling room one usually looks for
in a attempt to stay warm and ward off black toe nails is not what this boot
wants to do. This boot wants to fit more like a rock shoe (think "all day
trad shoe") resulting in a boot that feels like a warm blanket but
performs like tightly fitted sport climbing shoe. I went back and forth with
insole/sock combos searching mostly for the ideal fit regarding volume. I kept
coming back to a fit that allowed me to just barely stuff my feet into the
boots without my toes bashing off the ends or cutting off my circulation, thus
leaving little need to crank down on the laces to keep my foot in place. Fit
this way, the boots offered an amazing combination of support and dexterity,
all the while feeling much more like a overbuilt running sneaker than an
uber-light ice boot of any sort. With so little to the upper of this boot, it
really needs to be fit this way in order to offer the support ones desires in
an ice boot. Had I fit the boots with room to wiggle my toes and cold weather
circulation in mind, the boots would begin to feel a bit sloppy and lack the
support I would want in a boot I planned on climbing ice in. Fit as I had them,
the boots offer the perfect combo of support and all day comfort and
performance.



My first impression of this boot was that it was a niche item. I
figured it would be one more tool in my quiver of gear probably reserved only
for warm and or fast and light days on moderate ice in moderate conditions.
Having now done everything from long alpine days on both hard and easy terrain
to a few short days spent ice cragging and even some mixed climbing in both
warm and cold weather, I have to say these are a do everything boot and a does
everything well boot. I would go as far as saying these are a do everything and
does everything better boot. Yes on a couple cold days high on a route with
wind whipping my feet got cold. But so did both of my partners’ feet in Nepals
and Baturas. Add to that the fact that I fit them with a lightweight Smartwool
PHD ski sock more akin to a cycling sock than a wool winter sock of yesteryear
and I think, although far from a warm boot, the boots are pretty darn warm. On
a coupe of high-teens to mid-twenties Fahrenheit days, my feet felt downright
warm. These boots both approach and climb so well that even days i expect to be
cold I still choose to wear them because they just climb that much better than
any other boot I have worn, and I have worn them all. I simply no longer want
to wear any other boot as my feet just love climbing in this boot.


In summary, this boot is crazy crazy light and built incredibly well
regarding craftsmanship and materials! The boot makes me feel more like a
spider monkey climbing ice simply on his way home rather than a giant ape
clumsily making his way up the Empire State building only to be shot down by fighter
planes in a attempt at freedom. For me at least this boot is a game changer and
one I might go as far as saying you will have to "pry from my cold dead
hands."



more feedback via previous emails:



On New England Ice?

"Boots are great! I can climb anything in them. Meaning they climb hard ice
just fine if not better than my other boots. Not sure if it is in my head but I
suspect a little of both. They might be a 1/2 size small but only cuz I have
had to run my high volume custom orthotics in them.

In all reality I am pretty sure these boots made me a better climber for
real. I pretty much have stoppedkicking as I can just place my feet on the
smallest of features. What once felt like a tiny ledge now feels like a
giant shelf.I am in love!! They will be cold on cold cold days but it is
clear this is not a cold weather boot. Still though it will be very
very hard to ever want to climb in anything elseever!"




Two weeks later:

"So we had a great first trip to the Canadian Rockies. We ended up
getting out 11 daysstraight.
The boots rocked. I brought my Phantom Guides and never once wore
them. I have only great things to say about the Rebels."






The original Cold Thistle review is here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html

Three O'Clock Rock Total Soul ..

Steve and I finally coordinated to get some climbing done. The goal was to head out to Darrington and get in a slabtastic time on the nice granite. We talked Sunday night and decided that our second attempt on Dreamer could wait, and we would head to 3 O' Clock Rock to see if we could accomplish multiple routes. We were headed there with the intent of climbing Total Soul (III, 5.10b?) and Silent Running (II, 5.9+?).

We got a late start and arrived at the trail head with no time pieces. We made quick time up the trail and stopped briefly to marvel at some cut tree trunks and a still standing western red cedar that had a 10'+ diameter at the base. Once at the base of the slabs, we made our way to the Total Soul route.

(Photo by Steve Machuga)

As we geared up, we discussed lead options, and I told Steve it didn't matter, I'd have to lead a 5.10 pitch no matter how we split them. So I told him to combine the first two pitches and give me the lead on the third pitch (a 5.7) so that could be my warm up lead. (Using the "Weekend Rock" topos.)

Looking down from two pitches up. (Photo by Steve Machuga)

Apparently I did need the warm up because after struggling to overcome one of the overlaps on the lower 5.9 section, I pulled on the draw to get over it. My lead went smoothly and soon Steve was leading the fourth pitch where the difficulty started to increase.

Starting the third pitch (Photo by Steve Machuga)

This was probably the hottest time on the slab as well. The sun was hitting us directly and we were lower and there was less of a breeze. The fourth pitch was some climbing that followed a quartz dike up with a minor crack system. For whatever reason, it was really hard on the feet and both of us had painful feet from that pitch on. (My feet didn't fully recover until getting a night of sleep.) To add insult to injury, the belay at the top of the pitch was an uncomfortable hanging belay. Fortunately for me, I was moving on to the next lead. Unfortunately, that meant not resting my feet or toes for the 5.10 pitch.

The next pitch starts interestingly enough with a few moves up an overlap to a branch pull and onto some ledges. From the ledges there are two variations; a line of bolts on the left (5.10b) or some on the right (5.10d.) The right looked easier at first, but then looked to be featureless steep slab. After contemplating the right, I choose the left line. I was able to clip the bolt and was attempting to move out left to start up, but couldn't maintain traction with my left foot. After a few balks, I went for it and slipped and fell. (I was at the bolt, so not really a lead climb.) I grabbed the draw to get back on, and then was able to climb through this crux cleanly to a small flake where the going got a bit easier. The pitch finished moving right again, so I experienced a bit of rope drag as I had not anticipated that directional change. After the move right, I went up through a bush to the next belay. (Looking at the Nelson book this morning, he has the ledge labeled "ant farm ledge" which would explain why I had ants crawling up my legs for the duration of this belay.)

Steve leading the second 5.10 pitch

I brought Steve up where he rested his feet on the nice ledge and cursed his luck for having drawn the hanging belays. This would also be the point we were both ran out of water. (Did I mention it was hot? On the drive home, the outside temp was hovering around 90°F. We did have more water waiting for us at the base of the climb though.)

After a short rest, Steve headed out on another challenging pitch. It started out easy enough following some features up to some overlaps. After one overlap the crux moves came climbing on top of a left facing shallow dihedral. Steve paused for a while before finally working out the moves. I kept a keen eye on him and was quick to arrest a fall should he have one. He clipped the second bolt and kept moving. Unbeknown to me, it somehow became unclipped and he used it to clip the third bolt on this steep smooth slab. When I arrived at these moves it took a bit of time to move off a small ledge on the first moves. I could see the minor bulges in the slab on where I wanted to put my feet, but the first right foot felt insecure. After finally deciding on a feature I moved up, only to slip off onto the ledge. Another attempt and I nailed it, keeping my upward progress going as the slab was thin and the climbing uncomfortable on my feet. I arrived at the next hanging belay panting and in considerable foot pain. Rather than stop at the uncomfortable belay, we quickly changed the rack and I headed out onto easier (5.8) ground.

Surmounting the overlap (Photo by Steve Machuga)
This pitch turned out to be the most wandering of the climb and somewhat varied. There was some initial thin moves to a small ledge with a small bush on it. After traversing left on the ledge there was a large overlap to surmount. Since the overlap was large, I couldn't bring my feet too far under it to get over it, which meant a bit of a high step to make it up. After going through a bunch of options, I got my left foot as high as it could go, and then put my right foot on the lowest lip of the overlap. With some manteling, I was up and moving onto the rest of the pitch. This was also the most gear intensive pitch and I placed about three cams and one nut. (I also somehow dropped my #2 Camalot down to pitch 2, so I'll have to replace that when I get the money. Not sure how it fell, as I wasn't even going for a piece at the time.) The rest of the pitch followed some overlaps and corners up to the belay. It was markedly more dirty/mossy than the previous pitches and gave Steve and I the impression people don't always climb the last two pitches.

The final .10b "headwall"

But we did, and after I brought Steve up to the belay he set out on the last 5.10 pitch which was thin and dirty. After gaining the steep slab, there were some leftward moves to the second bolt on thin features. He moved up slowly and made it to a tree from which he brought me up. I found there to be one committing move at the leftward motion, and the rest to be easier (although sketchier due to the dirty factor) than the other 5.10 bits on the route. Once at the top, we wandered around a bit to see some views. (Not much really, it isn't a true summit after all.) We then located the rappel tree (as well as the rappel sign) and mused at the uniqueness.


(Photos by Steve Machuga)
After a rap through the trees to another tree. (A rap anchor made with nylon nautical rope and 4" stainless rap rings.) A rap from the second tree got us back to the top of the 6th pitch. From there it was a bunch of double rope rappels back to the base. (We were able to make it into the gully from the top of the second pitch.)

(Photo by Steve Machuga)
Once back at the packs we drank a lot of water and packed up. We took a short exploratory hike over to another part of the slab before heading down to the car. We arrived back at the car around 6:45pm and drove home.

Overall I was happy with this trip. I really wanted to do more climbing in Darrington and got the chance. I think my rustiness of having only climbed three times since May showed. I think I am capable of climbing that route clean and without the aid. Hopefully Steve and I will head back and climb one or more of the other routes there and perhaps I'll get a little more practice in before heading back.

Tombstone Tuesday :: Fisher and Davis

On September 11, .. I visited the public library in Lawrence, Kansas. Though I was unable to find an obituary for Samuel Fisher – the brother of my 2nd great grandmother, Louisa (Fisher) Phend (they were children of Michael and Christenia Fisher) or for Samuel's wife Lucretia (Davis) Fisher I did locate obituaries for several of their children, which will be the subject of future posts. I also obtained directions to Colyer Cemetery where Samuel and Lucretia are buried. During a visit to the health department to get their death certificates I found out that the records are not available at the local level, they have to be obtained from the State of Kansas.

I had to backtrack south and west of Lawrence for a short distance to get to Colyer Cemetery. It is in a rather remote area which involved traveling a bit on gravel roads and by the time I got to the cemetery, the rear of the van and my bicycle (hanging off the back end of the van) were caked with dust. From the top of the hill where the cemetery sits, you can see for quite a distance. There was a farm to the northwest and another to the northeast but nothing could be seen to the south. Remote, indeed. Very pretty. And very quiet.

The road to Colyer Cemetery, Marion Township, Douglas County, Kansas. Looking to the north.

The Fisher plot, looking to the northwest. The two barrell-shaped stones are for Lucretia and Samuel.

LUCRETIA A. FISHER / BORN AUG. 23, 1845 / DIED OCT. 31, 1909

SAMUEL FISHER / 1840 – 1913 / CO. A. 9 KAS. VOL. CAV.

FOOTSTONE.
SAMUEL FISHER / CO A / 9 KANS. CAV.

A Tale of Two Pensioners chronicles the mix-up of the pension records for this Samuel Fisher and another man of the same name.

In the second photo above, there is a marker to the south of Lucretia, which I am guessing is her mother. According to her marriage record (Douglas County Marriage Book 2 Page 33 Located at the County Clerks Office in Lawrence, Kansas), Lucretia's maiden name was Davis.

See detail below.

OUR MOTHER
GLORIANNE M. / CASWELL / WIFE OF / IRVIN DAVIS
BORN JUNE 10, 1821 / AT WATERTOWN N. Y.
DIED JAN. 30, 1882 / AT LAWRENCE KAN.
ALL'S WELL

Phend-Fisher Family Reunion Ledger (1920)

[page 1 - no date]
The 11th Annual Reunion of the Phend - Fisher families was held at the home of John Phend at Tippecanoe Ind. with fifty three members and eleven friends present among whom was Rev. Harper and family of Tippecanoe. Many more would have been there had it not been such a rainy day.

After singing "Blest be the Tie that binds," Rev. Harper offered Thanks and then each one proceeded to help himself or herself to the basket dinner.

In the after-noon a quartet composed of Mr. and Mrs. Frank Wherley and Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Phend sang several selections after which the secretary's report was read and approved and several short talks were given.

The following officers were elected.
Jacob Phend Pres.
Will Phend Vice Pres.
Fred Ernest Sec.
Christ Phend Tres.

[page 2]
Iva Wherley was chosen as chairman of the entertainment committee. A collection of $4.20 was taken to pay for several minor expenditures. It was decided by vote to hold the next reunion at the home of John Ernest at Elkhart.

Fred ErnestSec. The Phend-Fisher families gathered for a reunion in Elkhart County, Indiana almost annually from 1909 until 1943. Usually held at Nappanee, the events of the day were recorded in an old ledger book. Spelling has been retained as it was in the original though some punctuation and paragraph breaks have been added. To view all articles in this series click on the "Phend-Fisher Reunion Ledger" label at the bottom of this post.

Mobile Home

It can be said that one reason people enjoy commuting or traveling in a car, is that the car functions as an extension of their home while they are away at work or on the road. They keep a myriad of personal belongings in the car - from food and drinks, to changes of clothing and footwear, to reading material and selections from their music collection. Those who have children or pets often have toys and other objects associated with them scattered in the back. And then of course there are the familiar smells: Whether good or bad, the interior of a car takes on a distinct scent associated with its owners' activities and lifestyle. In essence, the car really does attain aspects of the driver's home over time, and this undoubtedly contributes to the emotional attachment many feel toward their vehicles. The Co-Habitant's dayjob involves extremely long shifts (12 hours is typical), and his colleagues routinely nip out to the car during breaks to retrieve various items and drop other items off. To do so is comforting when away from home for so long. This is also why the Co-Habitant equipped his Pashley with both a saddlebag and handlebar bag, despite a relatively short commute: It was important to create a similar "homey" environment for his bicycle.



In my earlier post about handlebar bags, I mentioned the appeal of the idea that the bicycle can be turned into a mobile home - ready to go anywhere while still allowing the cyclist to feel as if their life is coming with them, rather than being abandoned. Now that I have installed a handlebar bag on my own bicycle and have found myself in a situation where turning said bicycle into a mobile home is necessary, I truly understand what this feeling is like. While on Cape Cod, we are typically away from home from morning till late evening - during which time we work, go on rides, and do various things in town. All of those activities require different items to be taken along, including clothing, equipment and food. At this time of the year, there are also significant fluctuations in temperature in the course of the day (mid 40s- upper 80s) which must be taken into consideration. To my delight, the combination of a roomy handlebar bag and saddlebag can accommodate all of these concerns.



Typical contents of my handlebar bag: sweater, down vest, 2 extra hats, waterproof jacket, costume for photo shoot, props for photo shoot, make-up, shawl to use in leu of beach blanket, swim suit, flip-flops, extra pair of socks, 2 books, notebook, pen case with 2 pens, bar of chocolate, gloves, sunscreen, deodorant, DZNuts, saddle cover, money and ID. Notice that the bag is not even full.



Typical contents of my saddle bag (now converted into a camera bag) are our photo equipment: This time, a digital SLR, a Medium Format film camera, 10 rolls of film, and, just for fun, a toy camera. We have a second Medium Format film camera that could also fit instead of the toy one.



The Co-Habitant carries his own clothing, our tool kit and medical kit, and both of our laptops. He only has a single saddlebag on his roadbike, so the laptops he transports in a messenger-style bag on his person - which is the one glaring imperfection in our set-up. Next time we take a trip like this, he will have some sort of handlebar + saddlebag set-up as well, where the handlebar bag is smaller than mine, but the saddlebag is larger - the type that can fit laptops and will require a rear rack. I think that both the larger Rivendell and the Ostrich saddlebags will fit this purpose, but any other suggestions for future are welcome.



Of course, turning my otherwise lightRivendell into a "mobile home" has made it nearly as heavy as a typical Roadster - but the bike seems to handle no differently as a result. The longer I own this bicycle, the more I love it - which brings a new shade of meaning to "home is where the heart is".

Quotidian

My everyday lemon pie (awaiting topping)

During the news, I sometimes can't resist telling my husband, "I read about that on a blog already!" Although they are obviously just one person's viewpoint, I do enjoy having the opportunity that blogs provide, of getting some news unfiltered. Directly from the source. So I spent some time over the weekend looking at blogs from Israel and Lebanon.

The majority of Middle Eastern blogs are about politics. You can find any number of round-ups of what people there think about this outrage or that. But that's the same stuff that's on tv.

What I was really curious about was how the everyday lives of everyday people were changing. If you are too, you might want to read about...

Haifa's lost dogs

Sightseeing the war

Cleaning out the bomb shelter

Watching them watch you

and of course, there's always time for pizza.

Still Fighting With 5.9+: Jean (again)

(Photo: Trying to get psyched beneath the crux roof on Jean (5.9+), back in August.)



In my last post I wrote about my unexpected triumph over my first trad 5.10 lead, Beatle Brow Bulge. This was a great milestone for me. My onsight success climbing this soft 5.10 also made me wonder if the old rumor might actually be true:



Is 5.9+ in the Gunks harder than 5.10-?



Earlier that same day I found a reason to believe the rumor. The lesson came courtesy of my second attempt at Jean.



Back in August I'd attempted to lead Jean, but I hadn't liked the pro for the crux roof and I'd bailed without attempting to lead over the ceiling. I'd wanted a piece at the lip or above the roof but the best pro I'd been able to get was under the roof and to the right. I felt like a fall from just over the roof would result in a sideways landing onto the slab below the overhang, which would quite likely result in injury.



After giving up on the lead I'd tried the crux on toprope and found it to be not that difficult. Above the roof are a couple bad crimpers but then you get a great jug. I started to think that blowing it might not be so bad after all, because if you fell it would happen at those first couple of poor holds, before pulling over the roof and not too far from your gear.



I resolved to go back before the season ended to get redemption and conquer Jean.



Fast forward to November. With the end of the season coming quickly I figured if I was going to exorcise my Jean demons I had better get around to it soon.



But my memories from August were fading and I wondered if I'd really be any happier with the gear this time around. I decided to start a thread on Gunks.com asking about the appropriate gear for Jean. I'd read that there used to be a ball nut fixed right at the spot where you pull over the roof. I know nothing of ball nuts, but I thought maybe I could place one there myself, so I asked the wise climbers of Gunks.com which ball nut I should buy.



The consensus seemed to be that the cam off to the right is good enough, and that I should forget about the ball nut placement.



Armed with this information I felt somewhat reassured, but only somewhat. When our climbing day arrived I knew that I had to attack Jean right away or I was going to lose my nerve, so when we got to the Trapps parking lot I told Adrian that I wanted it to be our first climb of the day. We found it open and I went right at it.





(Photo: Here we go again. I'm hanging instead of trying the crux on Jean, this time in November.)



I felt strong as I got started. There is a cruxy little 5.8-ish move about halfway up that gets you established in the shallow corner system that leads to the roof. The pro for this move is totally solid, and while the move has pretty good hands, the feet are smeary. In August this move caused me much hesitation but this time, in November, I committed right away.



So far so good.



Then I got up to the pocket right under the roof and placed the key cam out right without too much strain. With this bomber pro in place, I should have been ready for the crux.



Determined to send, I reached up to the shitty crimper with my left hand...



and I couldn't make myself go for it.



Again.



The crimper felt so lousy. And I still didn't like the thought of that fall.



So I downclimbed a step and rested for a minute without weighting the rope. I still wanted this redpoint, in the worst way. I gathered my courage and tried again.



Such a bad hold! Was it this bad in August?



I chickened out for the second time and took a hang.



So much for that redpoint.



I must have repeated this routine once or twice more, going up, testing the hold, not liking it, retreating, and hanging.



Finally I decided to shorten the draw on my top piece of protection. I figured drag be damned, I need to reduce the potential fall. This decision gave me a certain amount of additional (and perhaps irrational) confidence. With the fall distance shortened by a foot or two I could commit to the moves and found them easier than I remembered. The bad crimper feels from below as though you'll pop right off it but once you crimp hard and commit, it isn't so bad. Shitty crimper left, shitty crimper right, then shelf, then jug and you're done. The crux is over in a few seconds.



I left Jean frustrated that I didn't get it clean. But I told myself I'd made progress. At least I finished it on lead this time. And my failure to redpoint had nothing to do with any inability to do the moves. It came down to a lack of faith caused by a combination of that crummy crimper hold and sub-optimal pro. Maybe my lack of faith was actually, in retrospect, completely justified. I wonder if that ball nut placement is necessary after all; theroof movemight bean ankle-breakerwithout it.



Even though I haven't conquered Jean, I don't thinkI need to go back to lead it again. I don't know what I would be trying to prove. And I might be risking a needless injury, unless I buy that ball nut...



IsJean a sandbag at 5.9+? I am torn. The climbing isn't easy. It isn't nearly as sustained as Beatle Brow Bulge. But those two crimps over the roof on Jean are less positive than any of the holds on Beatle Brow Bulge. Jean may require a little more technique, and a cooler head.

A Swedish Guest

Last week I received a new bicycle for an extended test ride and review: a Pilen Lyx. The distributor (BoxCycles) gave me a choice of colours and I took a gamble once again instead of just asking for black. This time the gamble paid off: The unusual shade of blue looks as stunning in person as it did in pictures. It is an ethereal "northern skies after an afternoon storm" sort of blue that I just want to keep staring at.



A small Swedish manufacturer, Pilenhas been producing bicycles since 1998. The worksmanship looks outstanding.



The finishing on the TIG-welded frame with lugged fork crown, seat collar, and capped seat stays is up there with the quality of high-end custom frames.



Iwill cover the frame details in the review after I've had more time with the bike, but so far I am pleasantly surprised.



Nice headbadge, too. Pilenmeans "arrow" in Swedish.



The lady's frame is available in one size only and it is huge: 56cm or 58cm (22"+), depending on how you measure it. At 5'7" I had to slam the saddle down, but I'm used to that: my GazelleandRaleigh DL-1 arethe same size.



Here are the Gazelleand the Pilentogether. The Pilenwill be kept outdoors for the duration of its visit, which will allow me to test its resistance to the elements. The distributor assumed this as a matter of course, since that is how he keeps his own bike and that is howPilenswere designed to be stored.



I've been riding the bike since Friday, but am not ready to describe the ride quality yet. It is not like a Dutch bike, and neither is it like an English roadster, so I am trying to "understand" it. I am also still messing with the handlebar and saddle positions and will hold off on my impressions until I get those just right.



But wait, there's more...



In their generosity, the distributor has given me the green light to give this bicycle away once I am finished reviewing it. There are no strings attached: I can just give it to one of my readers in any way I see fit. This is exciting, and I already have an idea for a contest that is kind of kooky, but hopefully fun. So if you are a taller lady, the Pilencould be yours!The final review will probably be ready in 3 weeks' time, and that is also when the bicycle will be given away.Stay tuned and I will post more about the contest next week!

Fitting and the detailing on climbing packs?

If you look around the Internet for so called "climbingpacks" the prices might well run between $30 and darn near $1000. Yep..a $1000! Of those listed damn fewactually willfulfill the hype as real "climbing packs" in my opinion.



This will be the first of a several part discussion on climbing packs.



If you were paying $200 for a pair of shoes would you accept a pair of size 11s for your size 9 feet? Of course not. "Dumb Ass" question isn't it? How about a $25 pair of flip flops? Would you take a size 6 for your size 11s? Likely same answer..."dumb ass" question. Why bother to ask or answer?



There are a few things in the out door industry that really bug me. They bug me because over the years they have gotten worse instead of better. Climbing is generally a sport that people grow out of. The rare exceptions are Fred Becky, a fewof the greatAlpinists that are still alive and likely the majority of the the crew over atSupertopo :)



From my perspective boot technology hasn't made any huge advances in 30 years. Climbing packs...nothing there either. Crampons....sheesh don't get me started on crampons!



But today the topic ispacks. More specifically climbing packs, their build quality and how to fit one so it does what is should for you in the mountains.



Any climbing pack is going to be a soft frame. Generally a really soft frame as in only a foam pad stuffed in some manner into the inside the pack. The frame doesn't mean a lot (but it is important) but what does mean a lot is the length of the back panel. That back panel must fit your physical measurements or the pack will be pretty useless.



In turn the correctly fit pack and your own anatomy will define how big the pack is. When you are talking climbing packs don't expect a 18L pack to fit you well if you are 6'3" or a 45L pack to be any better if you are 5'2".



Most of us will be best served with packs in the 30 (1800)to 40 (2500) Liter range for actual climbing while still having something useful for getting back and forth from the climbs. Why those sizes? Because most backs will fit between those pack volume sizes.



John Bouchard:

"To get an idea of how important each pound is when you’re climbing hard climbs
where you can’t afford to haul the pack, try doing pullups with weights around
your waist. Start with 5 lbs. and keep increasing in 5 lb. increments. For me,
each 5 lbs. decreases my performance by 20%!"



http://www.wildthingsgear.com/wild-things/stories/light-is-right.html



If you want to actually climb difficult technical ground, limit the weight in your pack and clothing to 20% of you actual body weight. For me that is 38# total or less. 38# for boots, clothing, water, foodand thetechnical gear! If you climb with me and you weigh 50# less we don't carry equal loads. If your total body weight is 125 pounds your entire kit from sleeping bag to boots will be smaller and lighter.That will make up for some of what you carry but not all. Your total load's weight should be25 pounds!It is much much easier in the alpine to have a partner of similar size physically for a number of good reasons. This is just one of them. If you want to climb hard, climb smart first.



Sure you can climb with more weight. But you will want to know how to haul a pack if you do. Or get your partner to climb in a pack and just take one pack. Here are a couple of tips for fitting a pack. First fill the pack up. Not overly stuffed just "full". I tend to use ropes for this. Ropes run 6 to 8 pounds for a 60m rope. With these size packs 3 or 4 ropes max will fill one up and give a soft but firm pack with an appropriate amount of weight to try them on for sizing.



With the straps loose the thing should sit on the top of your butt. You should have full range of motion with your head and neck with a helmet on. Can you look up and not touch the pack? You need to be able to.






This is a good fit length wise on the back. The pack is sitting on the top of the butt.





Hip belt is too high here and way too wide forthe weight it will carry

It only takes an inch or too either wayon th back panel length to make a pack almosttotally useless.




Bounce the pack up a bit and suck in the hip belt. It is a climbing pack so ditch the damn padded hip/waist belts that are 3 inches or wider. They are worthless with any weight you can actually climb in. Quick wayt to tell if the pack designer has a clue about climbing in fact. A simple 1 1/2" or 2" webbing waist beltis enough for anything you'll want to carry up to 3 days or so. Less will do as well if the pack actually fits. You don't want to constrict your hips or abs when you tighten the waist belt. Use soem common sense and let your body tell you if the pack fits.



I get called a "girl" on occasion. But from what I have seen a woman's climbing pack should be fitted no different than a man's. The ladies are more difficult to fit in the shoulders but the fit should be the same imo. Start with the correct pack length and then go from there. I am not a woman so I can't say that with any certainty. And one of my partners has yet to be convinced she can wear a hip belt of that size and in that position.Her worry is keeping the freedom of her hip joints. She has a new pack coming that is being built on the ideas I have posted here. As are all of my custom made packs. The experiencefrom that new pack should tell us a lot. So there will be a woman's insight following up on packs and pack fitting in the near future.Ladies, ifyou disagree with what I am writing hereplease tell me and why?



Once you have tighenedthe waist belt let it settle down where it is the most comfortable for you. That is generally on your hip bones...and a inch or twobelow your Iliac crest and setting on the top of your ass for support. Yes, both boys and girls have enough ass to support a climbing pack's weight.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliac_crest








My finger indicates the top of my Iliac crest. My hip belt is most comfortable and able to carry a majorityof the pack's weight if it is located several inches belowthe Iliac crest.






This should be a comfortable position on your hips as it is where most of the weight will be, or should be anyway. Carried by your hips not your shoulders...even with just 20% or LESS of your body weight involved. Then pull in the shoulder straps. Take about 40% (or less) of the pack's weight on to your shoulders now. But not too tight. Don't lift the pack off your hips. Do you still have full head clearance with a helmet? If the answer is no...ditch the pack...it sucks for climbing.






This is OK but getting a little high on the back..so likely too long of back panel and we shouldn't be seeing air between pack and back.







This is a better fit, note the curve on the shoulder straps going up and then over the shoulders.

My body position here sucks for the picture as I am bent over and my head down so the pack looks short. It isn't.




Make sure the pack straps come out of the pack narrow enough that they will stay on your shoulders.

I am 6'1" and 185. And I can still find shoulder straps that are way to wide for my shoulders and how they have developed. I don't have tiny shoulders but I have a hard time getting a tank top to stay on them unless it is tight. My shoulders aren't flat on top. If thepack straps are too wide coming out of the pack they are simply unusable for me. I need 2" between them, but prefer no more. You might need more or less.



If you are still good,with a 60/40 split on the weight now, check your sternum strap. It is the last adjustment. Too high or low and too tight will cut your breathing. Pay attention here. Get it adjusted right. Big chested men and women will have a problem with this one if the shoulder straps and sternum strap aren't able to be moved and adjusted right. The sternum strap will really aid in how secure the pack feels on your back and your balance because of it. Get it right and a decent size pack is easy too climb and ski in. You'll seldom notice it if you limit yourself to that 20% over all weight number.






Too short of shoulder straps and too high of sternum strap





Correctly fit shoulder straps and a better position on me for the sternum strap






Depending on how a woman is built the sternum strap might have to be located much higher than on a man.







Make sure your shoulder straps come out of the back, go up a tiny bit and then over the shoulder and down. Too much up on the shoulder strap and the pack is too small in the back length. No curve there or worse yet the shoulder straps going down over your shoulder and the pack is too big in the back length.






Classic case of too small of back panel for my physical size and too short of pack straps.

There is no way to make this pack fit me. I'd be much better off with a longer pack instead of longer shoulder straps. But note that the waist belt and bottom of the pack is in the right position.






I am actually climbing here in the same pack. The problem would seem obvious although the pack is reasonably comfortable because I am not carrying a lot of weight. (although I carried 3 days worth of food/gear on this trip)But really no matter how cool I think this pack is, for me this one sucks because of the limited back panel and shoulder strap sizing. A 17.5" back panel is never going to fit my 21" back.





















Even with the lid off thisis a much bigger pack than the green 27L pictured but more importantly a much better fitting pack for my body size. It is also much easier to climb technical ground with or ski in. A better picture of my personal pack fit. It may not be perfect but it is very close. The waist belt is not buckled which allows me to play with the pack's fit and shoulder straps in this picture.



Don't try to put you size 11 feetin a size 6 shoe!



More importantly don't let some lame ass salesperson or pack maker do it for you!

This isn't rocket science folks. But neither is it easy to get a really good fit. Packs have been used for millennium, the more simple they are generally the easier they are to carry. Find the packs that fit you the best and then make side by side comparisons to others of similar back panel size.



Only your boots should take more fitting than you climbing pack. Both will make the difference between relative comfort and an unpleasant trip.



In the day of technology and a "app" or every application you are FUBARed if you think of climbing packs in that contact. The weight in any pack is best carried as close to your back as possible for comfort and balance. Modern ice tools and crampons can easily go inside these packs. I do it all the time with Nomics and Dartwins and have yet to damage a pack in the last 3 or 4 years. I seldom use a lid on a pack but like the option of adding one at will.



Super light and super tough fabrics are cool. Most of my packs are made from one form or another. But it saves mere ounces on even the lightest packs. It is the suspension and foam pad that are the biggest percentages of weight. Start adding whistles and bells and the actual pack material will have an even smaller effect on the over all weight of the pack.



Soft frame climbing packs have a big margin of error for sizing. If you are within the norm you should easily be able to find a decent pack in this size range that will fit you. If not make sure your pack maker or the production pack you want actually fits. I am 6'1" but I have a really long back for my body size. I am 21" from base of neck to top of my hips. It is not the norm. I also have a 44" chest when I am in decent shape. That makes a long pack backwith longer shoulder straps fit me better. Having a good range of travel for my sternum strap makes it more usable as well.



Common sizing info..this from CCW:



"Back sizes are
determined by measuring from the tip of the hip bone to the prominent cervical
bone near the base of the neck. This is the standard measurement used throughout
the industry. Figures given next to each model on the product page correspond to
this approximate measurement, not the actual dimensions of the pack. In general,
though, our size medium/regular fits people 5'7" to 5' 10" while a large fits
those over 5' 10". This varies, as torso lengths vary from person to person. Our
packs have non-adjustable harnesses. "



this from Wild Things:




Finding Your Pack Size (Torso Length)









Finding the right pack size for you relies on your torso length, not your
height. To find your torso length have a friend measure your spine, using the
steps below:

• Find the most prominent vertebrae (C-7) at the back of your neck (tilting
  your head forward helps). It’s the large bump at about the same level as the top
  of your shoulders.


• Find the top of your hipbone (the iliac crest). Follow this point around in
  a straight line to your spine.


• Stand up straight and lay a flexible measuring tape directly against your
  spine. Measure the distance between points 1 & 2.

Pack Sizing Information

	S	M	L
Torso Length	18	19 1/2	21

Measurements refer to body size, not pack
dimensions, and are in inches.

The single most important thing you need to know on your climbing pack is DOES IT FIT?



PART TWO and Three of Climbing Packs



For part two and three of this series I'll discuss quality of manufacture, the required accessories,fabric choices and over all pack weight.









Pictured here are the same packs cut from different fabrics.