Friendship is like earthenware: once broken, it can be mended; love is like a mirror: once broken, that ends it ------ Josh Billings
Wednesday, September 17, 2014
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
The Unicrown Fork
A vey basic primer in bicycle fork construction: A traditional fork on a traditional lugged steel bike is made up of two blades and a crown, whereby the blades and crown arebrazed together - just like the tubes and lugs on the frame itself. There are many fork crown designs in existence, but the general concept is the same. Now, a unicrown fork is constructed differently in that there is no crown. The two fork blades are bent towards each other at the top, then (typically) welded together at the steerer tube. A unicrown fork is simpler and less expensive to make than a lugged crown fork, which is why it has become so ubiquitous among contemporary bicycle manufacturers.
Do you care what kind of fork your bicycle has? What do you think of unicrown forks - in of themselves, and in combination with lugged frames?
Monday, September 15, 2014
Friday, September 12, 2014
The Southerner's return to ice
Day 1 (Saturday)What a weekend! Hope everyone got out to enjoy the current fatness. Ice climbing conditions were perfect in the Laurel Highlands. Longtime climbing friend Matt Johns finallymade the drive up from Kentucky for some ice climbing. It'd been about 9 or 10 years since Matt has climbed ice. For many years the conditions seemed to have thwarted all attempts Matt has made to come climb ice. Well this was the year.Laura and I were in need of another restday andMatt needed a slight refresher on the art of ice climbing. Schoolhouse was our destination for Saturday. After a delicious breakfast at Valley Dairy, we drove to Ohiopyle. The road into Mitchell parking hadn't been plowed so we had to park at the main parking area in town andsnwoshoe 4 miles into the climb. Matt's an adventurous guy and Laura likes to hike so we decided it was a nice way to spend the day.
Laura and Matt starting the day. Photo TA
We set off from the parking area and the going wasn't bad the first 1.75 miles. Snowmobiles hadbeen down the rail trail packing the snow and making for easy travels. Stopped by a downed tree, the easy goingended there. Breaking trail in the deep snow was the norm the rest of the way. I was pulling Laura's and my gear on a sled and Matt was packing his own. It took about 2 hrs for us to reach the crag. I had been worried about the ice conditions with all the sun beating down.Matt and Laurahad slowed down a good bit in the final 1/2 mile push to the climb. He was very excited upon his arrival at the cliff. We found the ice in snowcone condition. I quickly geared up and climbed the route. I belayed Matt up as Laura took some photos.

Matt had a good time seconding the climb and getting back onto ice after so manyyears. We left it rigged on the shuts and walked down. We took turns climbing thequickly deteriorating ice. We finished up a little before 3 o'clock. Whilepacking up our gear Dr. Bob and Regina camewalking up thetrail to the cliff.We briefly chattedthen let themget to climbing as the routedidn't appear that it would be climbablemuch longer.Surprisingly the hike outfelt a little better than the hike in.At one point Laura hopped on thesledwith all the gear to take the easy way out. She was grinning ear to ear duringher 1/2 mile of sleighing through the woods.She was surprised I could manage the load and her. It was the least I could do since I didn't get hera valentines present this year.At the car we snapped a photo and made our way to dinner atTall Cedars in Donegal. We all agreed that the day was a lot offun. The weather was warm and it was great to getMatt on the elusive route. Remember Matt, the cliff is always 10min. away!
Laura climbing Flying Dutchman. Photo TA
One of many bent trees on the way out. Photo LH
Laura's viewon the Schoolhouse shuttle. Photo LH
The happy crew
The southerner says -mmmmmm good eatin'. Sneak photo LH
Day 2 (Sunday)We enjoyed our "casual day" Saturday saving our energy for a climbfest on Sunday. We met Joel Torretti, Dr. Bob, Regina, Mike, and Kenny atanother local cliff. I think Matt was impressed at his first sighting of the crag. We stopped at the top and I pointed out the different lines while Laura took some pics.
Matt & I checking out the routes. Photo LH
We made our way down to the climbs. Matt and I decided to start the day on Called on Account of Security. It was in thebest conditions I've ever climbed it. The normal mixed start was buried under about 12' of snow. It was still thin through the bottom, with a huge middle pillar and a slightly thin finish. It was a lot of fun.
The super fat middle of Called on Account of Security WI4. Photo LH
Matt Johns seconding Called on Account of Security. Photo LH
Laura was giving Joel a belay on G Gully. He led the initial pillar and threaded off.Mike and Kenny did the same on the Central left pillar. Ropes were left on all the lines while we all took turns climbing each of the lines. After our warm ups, Joel racked upfor theline he tried last week. He quickly made his thread and pushed up the nextstep to below the crux. He went upto thecrux,poked around a bit and backed down to the rest stance. This happened severaltimes before commiting to the moves. He worked up through on thethird try, placing several screws and looking solid.He did a great job of keeping it together and finishing what he startedthe week ago. Congrats on the send Joel! What's it called?
Joel Torretti on his new unamed line. Photo LH
My goal for the weekend was to get back onmy attempted routefrom Valentines day.Regina and Bobfinishedup on Called on Account of Security andit was "Go Time"The route looked slightly better or should I say "wetter" than last weekend. Some new blue ice graced the top of the climb concealing the V threads from the week before, all the while making the final bulge abit bulgier.The water was really running on the route. Temps were on the rise and I wasn't sure if I would get another shot next weekend or even the rest of the season.I figured it might be my last chance. I tied in and started up the route with Matt on the catch.
A cool perspective of me startingup the route. Photo LH
Climbing through one of the earlier crux sections. Photo LH
I found the climbing to feel a tad easier than the previous week. Still very commiting, but not as much work clearing the rotten shit as I had on last Sunday's attempt. Knowing the route, I utilized all the possible rests andthings went well (except for dropping my lucky BD stubbie in the snow. Gone forever!)
Finishing up the FFA of World of Pain WI 5+ Photo LH
Matt instilled great confidence as my belayer. I placed nowhere near the number of screws as the week before.Pulling the final bulge and not being pumped gave me a great sense of accomplishment. I placed an anchor screw, clippedin and relaxed.The view from the top was sweet.In a fine show of style Matt offered Laura to second mysend. ThanksMatt!She didincredible showingsmooth, effortless climbing.Matt was 3rd up the line doinga great job and enjoying the climb. I'm gladmy sweetie and old buddywere in on my send.
Laura seconding World of Pain. Photo MJ
"The Southerner" Matt Johns enjoying SWPA ice. Photo LH
Mike led The Awakening with Kenny as the last lineof the day. We hiked out to the cars satisfied as the day was drawing to a close.With some luck and cold weather we'll get in another weekend of climbing.
We set off from the parking area and the going wasn't bad the first 1.75 miles. Snowmobiles hadbeen down the rail trail packing the snow and making for easy travels. Stopped by a downed tree, the easy goingended there. Breaking trail in the deep snow was the norm the rest of the way. I was pulling Laura's and my gear on a sled and Matt was packing his own. It took about 2 hrs for us to reach the crag. I had been worried about the ice conditions with all the sun beating down.Matt and Laurahad slowed down a good bit in the final 1/2 mile push to the climb. He was very excited upon his arrival at the cliff. We found the ice in snowcone condition. I quickly geared up and climbed the route. I belayed Matt up as Laura took some photos.
Day 2 (Sunday)We enjoyed our "casual day" Saturday saving our energy for a climbfest on Sunday. We met Joel Torretti, Dr. Bob, Regina, Mike, and Kenny atanother local cliff. I think Matt was impressed at his first sighting of the crag. We stopped at the top and I pointed out the different lines while Laura took some pics.
We made our way down to the climbs. Matt and I decided to start the day on Called on Account of Security. It was in thebest conditions I've ever climbed it. The normal mixed start was buried under about 12' of snow. It was still thin through the bottom, with a huge middle pillar and a slightly thin finish. It was a lot of fun.
Laura was giving Joel a belay on G Gully. He led the initial pillar and threaded off.Mike and Kenny did the same on the Central left pillar. Ropes were left on all the lines while we all took turns climbing each of the lines. After our warm ups, Joel racked upfor theline he tried last week. He quickly made his thread and pushed up the nextstep to below the crux. He went upto thecrux,poked around a bit and backed down to the rest stance. This happened severaltimes before commiting to the moves. He worked up through on thethird try, placing several screws and looking solid.He did a great job of keeping it together and finishing what he startedthe week ago. Congrats on the send Joel! What's it called?
My goal for the weekend was to get back onmy attempted routefrom Valentines day.Regina and Bobfinishedup on Called on Account of Security andit was "Go Time"The route looked slightly better or should I say "wetter" than last weekend. Some new blue ice graced the top of the climb concealing the V threads from the week before, all the while making the final bulge abit bulgier.The water was really running on the route. Temps were on the rise and I wasn't sure if I would get another shot next weekend or even the rest of the season.I figured it might be my last chance. I tied in and started up the route with Matt on the catch.
I found the climbing to feel a tad easier than the previous week. Still very commiting, but not as much work clearing the rotten shit as I had on last Sunday's attempt. Knowing the route, I utilized all the possible rests andthings went well (except for dropping my lucky BD stubbie in the snow. Gone forever!)
Matt instilled great confidence as my belayer. I placed nowhere near the number of screws as the week before.Pulling the final bulge and not being pumped gave me a great sense of accomplishment. I placed an anchor screw, clippedin and relaxed.The view from the top was sweet.In a fine show of style Matt offered Laura to second mysend. ThanksMatt!She didincredible showingsmooth, effortless climbing.Matt was 3rd up the line doinga great job and enjoying the climb. I'm gladmy sweetie and old buddywere in on my send.
Mike led The Awakening with Kenny as the last lineof the day. We hiked out to the cars satisfied as the day was drawing to a close.With some luck and cold weather we'll get in another weekend of climbing.

Thursday, September 11, 2014
Prusik Peak, West Ridge
We seem to make it up to the Stuart range at least once every year. This time we climbed Prusik Peak. The approach to the peak was as good as the climb. We went right through the heart of the Enchantments. There was still a lot of snow up there feeding the numerous small lakes.
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Understanding Rest and Recovery
One thing I've realised, is that if I do strenuous rides for more than two days in a row, on the third day my performance starts to get worse rather than better. Even if I don't think that I feel tired, it's as if my legs stop working properly. If you're an athlete, you are probably thinking "well, duh!" but to me this was a novel discovery. The idea of needing to rest and recover in order to improve did not have meaning until I physically experienced it.
What I am trying to figure out now is, what exactly does resting and recovering entail? Some advise that on days off, you absolutely must do "recovery rides" - 15-20 mile rides at an easy pace on fairly flat terrain - and that not doing them will result in stiff muscles and make it even more difficult to ride the next day. Others advise that on days off, you need to stay off the bicycle completely and just basically lounge around and eat so that your system can fully recover. Unless I am misinterpreting (which is entirely possible), these two points of view seem at odds with one another. So which is applicable under which circumstances?
Having tried both methods, I am still not sure which works better. I am also not sure whether transportation cycling (on an upright bike) is considered a type of recovery ride, or whether it's considered not cycling at all. Given that it activates a different set of muscles I suspect the latter, but I could be wrong. None of this stuff is intuitive for me, which makes it both frustrating and fascinating.
Spring Weather

Please continue to check back to the Access and Roads thread for the most up to date information regarding White River and Stevens Canyon opening dates.
With Memorial Day Weekend just around the corner, the climbing season is getting into full swing. The Climbing Information Center will be open daily from 6:00 am to 6:00 pm starting Friday, May 27th. Come on up and enjoy the start of the season!
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