Monday, February 8, 2010

50 Miles Without Coasting

I have ridden Marianne for about 50 miles now as a fixed gear, so I figure that I can offer my impressions without feeling that I am speaking too soon. I have taken her both on city rides in traffic and on trails (the Charles River Trail and the Minuteman Bikeway), both with the Co-Habitant and alone. And I think the fixed gear conversion was the best thing that could have happened to this bicycle.



Popular culture has created the unfortunate association between fixed gear and danger, brightly coloured track bikes, and "hipsters". But that is ridiculous. The only distinguishing feature of a fixed gear bike is that it does not coast. You can turn your loop-frame or your beach cruiser into a fixed gear if you like, set the gearing low, and enjoy pedaling leisurely around town on it. It will be just like a single speed, only you can't coast. That's all.



I know that most people enjoy coasting, but I have never been crazy about it. On my regular bicycles I try to always be in a gear that will allow me to pedal. Coasting - especially at high speeds - makes me feel as if the bicycle is a wild horse galloping out of control and dragging me along, with me barely managing to hold on to the reins. This is especially frightening on winding downhills - so I try to switch into a high enough gear that will allow me to pedal, and then I feel that I have better steering control. I have no idea whether this is based on real physical principles, or whether it is all in my head. But the result is that I welcome the "no coasting" aspect of fixed gear bicycles, rather than think of it as a drawback.



For the same reason, in many ways I find fixed gear bicycles easier to ride, not more difficult. What else is easier about them? Well, remaining stable at very slow speeds - which is a useful skill in the city. You can only coast for so long before your bicycle stops, but if you push on the pedals again, your speed will increase too much. On a fixed gear, you can pedal in slow motion, and the bicycle will remain perfectly stable while going at the exact speed you want, no matter how slow. This is especially useful when you are trying to go around pedestrians, or inch your way forward to the red light at busy intersections. If you have a poor sense of balance and coordination like I do, you may find fixed gear to be helpful in situations that would otherwise leave you flustered.



As I have mentioned earlier, Marianne was a particularly good choice for a fixed gear bike, because her over-responsiveness is now an asset. As before, she turns super-quickly and easily - but now, she does it only when I want her to and the responsiveness no longer feels like "twitchiness" or "squirreliness". It feels like I now have an extremely maneuverable bike, of which I am in full control - as opposed to a bike that was more maneuverable than I could handle.



The thing that took the most getting used to, was trusting the brakes enough to speed up. I kept having to remind myself, that this is not the track bike I rode in Austria; this bike has brakes and I can come to a complete stop any time, just like on a regular bike! After the first couple of rides though, this finally sunk in and I've stopped worrying about braking.



After a couple of days, we re-did the bars by wrapping the entire surface in cork tape, to allow multiple hand positions. We also removed the rear brake (it really was unnecessary) and placed the front brake lever on the right handlebar for easier access. The bell is now mounted on the stem.



My gearing on this bicycle is 42-tooth in the front and 19-tooth in the rear (with 170mm cranks and 27" wheels). That is a pretty non-aggressive gearing that is good for everyday cycling in hilly areas. I may get a smaller rear cog eventually (which will allow me to go faster, but will make things more difficult on hills), but I don't feel the need for that yet.



There has been some discussion about foot retention and whether I plan to get clips for the pedals. On a fixed gear bike, there is the danger of the feet slipping off the pedals, and the pedals then smacking you in the ankles. This can happen when going over bumps at high speeds, or when flying downhill. I do recognise the risk, but let me put it this way: Given that I have brakes and I don't go very fast on this bike, I think there is more chance of my falling as a result of using clips, than there is of my getting smacked with pedals. I may try Powergrips at some point, but I've seen them in a local bikeshop and even they look scary. I did not do well with half-clips. Are Powergrips easier?



I am sure the novelty of the new Marianne will eventually wear off, but for now I can't seem to stop riding her. After a seat post adjustment (more on this later), the bicycle now feels fairly comfortable on rides under 20 miles. Taking it on a very long ride last night was overkill though, and various parts of my body are now hurting. I think I will stick with the Sam Hillborne for those, and leave Marianne for the city.

It's the End of the Highway!

This morning I was later than usual in leaving the campground. It had rained all night. I think there is something about a rainy morning that just makes you want to sleep in. It was 10 o'clock when I left Tok and it was drizzling. I felt sorry for these motorcycle riders who passed me. It can't be much fun riding in the rain.

To the west, the direction I was headed, the skies appeared to be clearing up a bit. To the east, gray, heavy clouds filled the sky. I hoped that Sue and Fred, who were a little more than a day behind, weren't getting a lot of rain.

About ten miles west of Tok I glimpsed this pond out the side window. It took my breath away! I had to turn around and go back. It was just a few feet off the highway. There was no other traffic at the time and I felt as though I was alone with the universe. It was so incredibly beautiful.

The blue skies lasted another twenty minutes down the highway, then the gray stuff made it's way back. A little rain now and then too.

And then, a little over two and a half hours after leaving Tok, there it was. On a curve going into Delta Junction - the “official” end of the Alaska Highway. 1422 miles (nearly 2500 miles since leaving Roosville, Montana). At times it seemed like an endless highway; going up, down, curving around, seldom straight, but tree-lined with glimpses of far off vistas.

I made it! And in a few weeks, I'll have to do it again (at least part of it).

I've been in touch with Sue and Fred along the way. They are a little over a day behind me but we'll meet up on Sunday at Denali National Park. It has been rather comforting, in an odd sort of way I suppose, to know that they were following me. Knowing that they would be along if something happened along the way.

Just before they left Louisiana, Sue started a blog - Notes from the Cabin....and beyond in which she has been chronicling their fall trip. Sue and Fred are what you might call “planners” which is a somewhat different approach to my method of travel. They have had better internet access than I have and Sue has written much more than I have too – and written quite well, I might add. You might enjoy reading what she has to say about their journey...

I'm currently at the very pleasant public library in Delta Junction, immensely enjoying their fast wifi. Shortly, I will be heading north towards Fairbanks. The Tanana Valley State Fair starts today in Fairbanks so I'm a little concerned with finding a place to stay and may stop just before getting to Fairbanks, making it one of the shorter drive-days. I considered taking the Denali Highway over to Denali but it is a gravel road and it has been raining so it can be a bit slippery. Besides I need to refill my cooler and cupboards as I've eaten nearly everything I brought! So toward Fairbanks I'll be heading.

Photographs taken August 6, ...

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Sweet Home Alabama - MARDI GRAS

January 29th and we make it to Gulf Shores, AL. We stop at the State Park but there are no sites available. Find a monthly spot at Island Retreat RV Park on Fort Morgan Rd. Lots of snowbirds, the majority are from Michigan.



The weather continues to be colder than we had hoped. This is one of the coldest winters on record. Highs are in the 50's but gets down to the 20's at night. Average temps should be in the 60's.



Enjoy a Mardi Gras Parade up in the town of Fairhope.































Mexican Train with Bob and Vicki

We are leaving tomorrow, and we've hardly seen Bob and Vicki since we got here, so we are thrilled that we made plans to play Mexican Train with them tonight. Before I get into the evening, I have to talk a bit about Bob and Vicki.

We all adore Bob and Vicki. You know how there are certain people that just find a way deep into your heart? They are those people for us. Vicki was the first person to tell us about Mexican Train. She was the first to teach Austin and I pickleball after Barb sucked us into the game. Vicki spent hours and I mean HOURS that first day with us. That's just how she is though...so patient and kind. Bob always has a twinkle in his eye and has a wicked pickleball serve and game. They are tons of fun to spend time with. Beyond that they are just what Austin always calls "good people". We find ourselves breathing easier when we are around people like them.

Don't let that fool you though, because they will still play to beat the pants off of you when playing Mexican Train! We started out with Aric in the lead and Nathan with the Good Sport ribbon. Every time I see a picture of Aric, I am glad he shaved all of his hair off so you can see his handsome face now. That and I got tired of people thinking he was homeless. Bad enough we live in a RV, we don't need people thinking we have no home at all thanks to him! Just kidding, Aric. You look mah-velous now though.

At some point, Bob pulled into the lead. I think Vicki's bathroom trips where she could see all what we all had on our trays had something to do with this...but I can't quite figure out how...so I'm not tossing out any accusations just yet. Austin decides that Bob is winning, so they are now "homies". Or maybe they are homies because the two of them combined talk almost as much trash as Dean does by himself. Either way, I think he thought that meant he got to wear the ribbon too. (Note the long sleeved shirt that Austin wore so he could stick dominoes up his sleeves. I'm on to him too!)

Bob said once he got the ribbon, he never gave it up. So I think Austin needs another game plan if he wants to wear the ribbon. Then again, Austin does have youth on his side....

Sadly, Bob's prediction was right. He did keep that ribbon for the rest of the night after he took first place. Nathan was even stingier though. He wore his ribbon the whole night and never once shared it with anyone.

We had a great night with them. Can't wait to see them and everyone else again in Florida!



Living the life with laughter in Michigan!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Hotel Tales and the Statue of Liberty in Colmar

Trivia: Did you know that the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty in New York City is a native of Colmar, France? His name is Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi. The statue was a gift from the people of France to the United States of America.



Statue of Liberty in Colmar









This goes naturally that when you arrive in Colmar, you will also see the Statue of Liberty, but a smaller version and the statue is placed in the middle of a roundabout instead of an island. I learned that there is a replica as well somewhere in Paris, and it was rumoured that the face of the Statue of Liberty is modelled from Bartholdi’s mother.



There is a museum dedicated to Bartholdi and to his works in the city. I was tempted to go but I am not really the museum type. I actually go to museums on very rare occasions. Nevertheless, some ofBartholdi’s works are found on the city streets as he designed several fountains in Colmar.



Hotel where I stayed in Colmar



In Colmar I stayed at the All Season’s Hotel Colmar Centre, a hotel that is part of the Accor & Ibis Group of Hotels. They have a slogan that says—Budget Hotel with Design Interiors for Family which I find misleading because the rooms start at 109 Euros. Is that budget? And what is design? At least this so-called budget hotel came with a free breakfast and use of the wifi.









The business-like room and the view. Remnants of what was once a brewery.







Pictures of the hotel taken from their website.









The colourful breakfast room and my breakfasts. I am not a breakfast person and when I am travelling and a free breakfast is included in the room, I always felt forced to eat them. I loved the juicer that they have. I pressed that orange juice myself.



The reason why I booked this hotel is because it is the cheapest hotel available in the centre with an 8 review score at booking.com. Yes cheapest in the centre at 109 Euros for single pax. There was another one that I really liked but I’m not happy forking out double the price. I’d rather spend the extra money on my dinners. They also advertised that the hotel is a former brewery, and that somehow piqued my interest. That actually closed the deal for me, although I found out later that there was really not much to see of what was once a malt production house.



Nevertheless, I find the hotel a bit like the business hotels I stayed at except that a) the breakfast room is too colourful and b) I am seeing a lot of retirees in groups



My Hotel Tales



On the first night I was in the lobby drinking tea and reading a few magazines. I just had my starred dinner at Le Rendez-vous de Chasse Restaurant and didn’t want to have coffee there as I was already stuffed. When you order coffee at fine dining or Michelin-starred restaurants, they usually bring you an array of sweets with it. I cannot handle that. So I declined coffee and settled for tea at the hotel lobby.







What I quickly noticed in the lobby are the group of retired women playing cards. The old dames were from Germany and they were very friendly to me, flashing smiles at my direction as they played and while I sipped my tea. I saw a few of the dames elegantly dressed. I wondered if I could emulate these elegantly dressed women when I reach their age? Interestingly, they were not the only retired women group that checked-in at the hotel. During breakfast I saw 3 groups, all German retired women and the groups did not know each other.



Hmm, must be the season for pensioned off ladies to go tripping around Europe.



On the second night I sat at the bar and ordered a gewürztraminer. I just came from dinner in Basel, Switzerland and in the mood to have a light nightcap before going to bed.









I overheard another group of retirees talking. 3 Belgian men and an American couple.



Belgian man 1: ‘We are from Brussels.’

Belgian man 2: ‘Brussels you know is the capital of Europe!’

American woman (in shrilly voice): ‘Oh really!!! So, um... do you guys feel French?’



*Belgian guys looking at each other, confused, with eyes wide and about to explode*



Belgian man 3: ‘Uh, what did you say again?’



Me listening at the bar: *palm on my face*



UGH. Total fail. You never ask a Belgian if they felt French (or Dutch). It’s like saying to Americans that they are Canadians, or an Irish that they are English. The cue was already there when the Belgian guys proudly said that Brussels is the capital of Europe! *rolls eyes* (sorry, cannot help it!)



Oh well, when you are travelling you really learn a lot, about people =)


Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Monday Mailbox: What is a High Nelly?

VCC Northern Ireland Ride

Monday Mailbox is a weekly post dedicated to questions received over email. Here is one, for a nice change of pace:

It's been fun discovering what to call different styles of bikes through your blog... diamond frame, step-through, loop frame, mixte, truss frame, Frascona curve! But what exactly is a High Nelly?


I have wondered about this myself, especially about the term's origin.




Used predominantly in the UK and Ireland (and not very common anymore), in a general sense "High Nelly" describes upright bikes. More often than not, the term refers specifically to women's bikes, and particularly to vintage ones. So, for instance, an old fashioned loop frame with swept-back handlebars up higher than the saddle might be called a High Nelly - similar to what an omafietsis to the Dutch.



VCC Northern Ireland Ride

But in Northern Ireland last summer, I was treated to a more detailed explanation. I was told that originally, "high nelly" referred to a specific style of a woman's bicycle frame, where the head tube was extended considerably past the height of the seat tube. This ensured that the handlebars could be set up as high as possible, for a fully upright and ultra-ladylike position. Apparently, only frames thus constructed are true high nellies.




1970s and 1930s Raleigh Tourists

Interestingly, in manufacturing its popular Lady's Tourist model, some time in the 1940s Raleigh switched from the original extended headtube design to one where the headtube was more or less level with the seat tube. The measurements of my 22" 1973 DL-1 frame are almost identical to the measurements of my 22" 1936 Lady's Tourist frame, save for this aspect and the resulting difference in posture.So, going by the explanation above, only the very early Lady's Tourists can be considered high nellies, whereas the later DL-1s (as well as most other post-war English 3-speeds) are not. And according to the same definition, lots of modern bikes can be considered high nellies, since extended headtubes are now quite popular.




Unfortunately, I cannot find any written information about the origins of the term, so I can't cite my sources beyond "conversation with collectors." And sadly, who exactly this Nelly was, for whom I assume the style of bicycle was named, remains a mystery.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Cozumel Cruise~Day at Cozumel


Our day trip to Cozumel was a blast! We were able to join Rich and Dee and Dean and Margie and some of Dee's family for an island tour with tour guide. It was really neat to see the island this way!



The island was as pretty as I thought it would be. The people were incredibly friendly. The water was that same clear water that we experienced on our last cruise.



We stopped at a little village, where there were tons of goodies to buy.



We made friends with some of the local critters.



Rich and Dean visited jail, we soaked up some of the beauty and we enjoyed the air conditioned van.





We enjoyed "real" Mexican food and ended the day with a tour of a Tequila factory.



It was a great day full of wonderful memories!



Living the life in Cozumel!